Well here we go, it's about time I did a proper Bansko report
and compared the three Bulgarian resorts.
Kiwi had done a fantastic job of securing a last minute deal
with Balkan holidays, about £270 with lift passes
We all met at Gatwick airport, Lisa and I not quite knowing
what was in store for us. SteveC we already knew, but the mysterious
Dave Canski and the kiwi were unknown to us. We couldn't have
chosen better company, everyone hit it off straight away, and
this was going to be some trip.
The flight was delayed, but hey ho that's life. The in flight
meal was a surprise, and a pleasant one to be honest. Ham, cheese,
bread rolls, chocolate dessert, that'll do nicely thanks. One
thing to raise an eyebrow over, no drinks service. SteveC and
Dave nearly had to be sedated to last the flight, but it wasn't
long before we were on final approach to Sofia. Sofia was its
usual self, and we were soon on our way in the transfer coach.
Three hours is going to make your arse numb, so it was nice
when the driver stopped for us to stretch our legs and let the
now twitching Steve and Dave get a drink. The only delay we
had on the rest of the transfer, was the coach getting pulled
for speeding and the driver being breathalysed. He hadn't been
drinking of course, just trying his best to make up the time
we'd been delayed by.
On our arrival in Bansko, lisa and I looked at each other with
a "where's the bloody snow" look. This was very different
to any other resort we had been to, in fact it wasn't even cold.
It was at this time that the lovely Anna (crazy lady) showed
up, and gave us a hand getting our kit into the Mont Blanc apartments.
This wasn't as easy as it sounds, as Kiwi has a case about the
same size and weight as a coffin. We speculated as to whether
or not he would sleep in it. Once we'd dropped the cases off,
we went for a quick drink. As I walked into the sir Galahad
bar, I was very disturbed to hear karaoke being attempted. If
this was the level of entertainment in here, I wasn't going
to be going back in. How wrong I was. Deciding we needed somewhere
a little quieter, we went to the sports bar. Once again, I don't
like sports bars, so was a little disappointed. Lisa Kiwi and
I decided enough was enough, and trudged home to the Mont Blanc
to rest our weary heads. We left the boys with an almost orgasmic
look about them as they had found the beer they needed.
After a comfy, but slightly disturbed sleep (bloody dogs barking),
we arose to the new day. Throwing back the curtains and temporarily
blinding me, Lisa spotted the snow capped mountains. Once my
vision had started to return, I couldn't help thinking, that
looks a long way away. The Kiwi had been a star again, and run
off and found the Balkan rep to get our lift passes. It's just
as well he found him, because nobody else saw him/her all week.
It's not a problem though, who needs a rep to tell you which
bars you can have fun in ?
We set off for the gondola. The first thing that hit me was
just how warm it was. I was wearing a thick one piece suit that
had kept me comfortable in temperatures of -28c in Pamporovo.
It was not -28 here, and I started to sweat. The walk from the
Mont Blanc to the gondola takes minutes, and gave us chance
to have a look around. I was staggered by the amount of construction
going on, but then there is a very good reason for that, more
of that later.
Steve introduced us to friends at the gondola station, which
I have to say is the best skiing facility I have ever seen.
Brand new, and well thought out it will be an asset to Bansko.
The ski/boot fitting caves are a high tech haven, with well
trained staff, and we were soon doing the first day ski boot
shuffle to the gondola. As this was March, we simply walked
straight to the gondola, and got in, no mucking about.
Twenty or so minutes later, we arrived at the top station, well
above the snow line, and markedly colder.
Our enthusiasm carried us straight onto another short chairlift,
and straight down a blue run, just to get the feel of our kit.
Lisa was still on her snowblades at this time, and having come
away from Pamporovo two months earlier on a high, threw herself
into the slope. The pistes in Bansko are just fantastic, end
of, full stop, period, whatever ! Wide and well thought out,
we had a blast. I should point out that up until now Lisa had
only done a slight red before. The runs in Bansko are graded
somewhat differently to the other Bulgarian resorts. A red in
Pamporovo, is a blue in Bansko. Buoyed up with confidence, we
went to the top of the mountain to tackle something steeper.
The lads are excellent skiers, and we didn't want to hold them
back, so we did our own thing and said we'd see them back at
Shilingarnika for a bite to eat. Having just ripped down one
of the more serious reds that Bansko offers, I was surprised
when, at the top, Lisa says "why don't we do the Tomba"?
This place really does inspire you. Ok, so the Tomba is steep,
but it is well maintained and wide enough to recover any mistakes.
Common sense prevailed however, and we did the big red again
only faster
Stopping at Shilingarnika for a bite to eat and a drink or two,
we chatted about the resort. To be honest I was buzzing. I could
see some really good skiing and video footage being had this
week, and was on a bit of an adrenaline high from the skiing.
I had a drink. In fact I had more than a drink, I had a couple.
In fact I had more than a couple Deciding to ski the skiroad
back to the bottom Gondola was a no brainer, although Steve
warned us not to slow down too much as it had thawed a bit down
at the bottom. I set off, a little bit drunk, and full of confidence.
It turns out I had overestimated my abilities. I did the first
few miles in what seemed the blink of an eye schussing all the
way. Head down, arse up and go for it is good fun, until you
cross your skis because you're tiddled. I literally pinged out
of my bindings and landed gently on my face. As I landed I heard
a rather sickening crunch, which was bad enough to worry me
for the next few days. The ski road must surely be the best
way to end any day on the piste. Five miles..ish, and a beer
when you get back. I'm looking forward to doing it again when
it isn't quite so warm, and unable to melt the snow at the bottom.
After dumping all our kit at the gondola station, it was straight
in the happy end for a pint or two.
This was pretty much the routine for the rest of the week, until
the happy end was shut for a party one night. Grudgingly, we
wandered down the road a bit to find another bar. We didn't
walk far. Call me fickle, but when you walk into a place that
is full of ski instructors and people wearing T-shirts with
"staff" printed across the back, you're drinking with
the locals, right? We went in there every night after that.
One evening, we had something like 7 large vodkas (100ml), 5
orange juice, 2 sodas, 5-6 beers, and five of us had something
to eat, from a pancake, to a good meal. The bill I hear you
cry ? 49.43 Leva, about £17. You know it's good when they
actually ask you for the stotinki instead of rounding it up.
Eating out in Bansko is a treat. There are loads of mehanas
that offer just about any sort of dish you would fancy. We ate
in several, and were never disappointed. I'm not going to recommend
one over another quite simply because you would need a month
to get round them all.
Having a drink is just as much fun. After my first experience
of sir Galahads I wasn't looking forward to going back in. How
wrong I was. We were made very welcome by all the staff, and
the duo that play in there every night are awesome, particularly
the guy who plays guitar (we bought their CD, that's how good).
Sir Galahads used to close relatively early as it was the end
of the season. Once the manager realised we like a drink or
two (must be the understatement of the year) he told his barman
to look after us. Poor chap mustn't have got much sleep that
week, he was dozing off on the bar and it was only 5:30 am
Let me compare the three resorts.
Bansko has just spent an enormous amount of money on its infrastructure,
and done well with it. The resorts of Borovets and particularly
Pamporovo would do well to follow their example. Borovets has
a village charm that Bansko never will. Everything in Borovets
is just a short walk away, including the slopes. Pamporovo is
a little more spread out, and not as well served as Borovets
for bars and restaurants. Bansko hardly compares to the two.
How can it, it is a town next to a ski resort. Given time, Bansko
will get its share of tourist traps, but at the moment it doesn't
have them. It does however have absolutely massive potential.
This is one place that is going to take off, I suggest you get
there soon to see for yourselves. The locals and investors know
it too. Building work is going on everywhere, and they need
to. Bansko will become the premier resort in the Balkans I'm
certain. Borovets and Pamporovo need to pick up their game.
Let me give you a tip guys, when you decide to build a new hotel
with thousands of beds why don't you speculate where these guests
are going to ski ? If you don't, these fine hotels you are building
will be empty. I love Bulgaria, but the short sightedness of
some of the developers is disturbing me. In Bansko you need
as many hotels and apartments as possible to accommodate the
crowd that will beat a path to your door. In Borovets and Pamporovo
you need some more lifts and some more pistes, NOW!!!!
In my sincerely humble opinion, if you're a complete newbie,
go to Borovets. If you're a bit better go to Pamporovo. If you're
a good skier that isn't interested watching sky sports and drinking
Guinness get your backside to Bansko.
One question I have to ask myself, would I go back. Borovets?,
yes love the small village charm and friendly people. Bansko?,
definitely ! Fantastic skiing at an as yet undiscovered jewel.
Pamporovo?, not likely. While the prices have risen in line
with Borovets, it doesn't have the charm, and it's infrastructure
isn't being improved.
As I said earlier, this is just my opinion. If someone now tells
me that the Bulgarians are just about to spend millions on Borovets
and Pamporovo improving the infrastructure I will apologise,
but then, haven't I heard that before?
Time to stop talking and start doing.........like Bansko has
!
Phil Cross March 2006
